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An Interview with the Double Negative Darkroom

words Tamara Vos

18th June 2014

There's a quiet, domestic street in Homerton that hides, as is so often the case in London, a fantastic little gem. You need to know to look for the Double Negative Darkroom or it would easily pass you by, but once you know it's there you'll be sure to seek it out again. 

The Darkroom is a budding independent photographic lab, housing a community of photographers and artists who all come to talk shop with one another and share ideas. Specializing in alternative photographic processes and silver gelatin printing, the space consists of a myriad of processing rooms as well as a gallery, and monthly workshops on everything from 3 Colour Gum Printing to Wet Collodion Processing. 

We spoke to Sebastian Sussmann, the founder of the Darkroom, and Tina Rowe, a resident artist, about how the darkroom began and what it's like to work at something with often unpredictable results. 

Seb. Five years ago I started a darkroom in Hackney Wick, and a year and a half later I discovered this space in Clapton. There are darkrooms in derelict buildings all over London and I was in a habit of walking around trying to find them. The printmaker who shared this space invited me to use it, and so I moved the darkroom here.

I’d always had a very keen interest in photography. Before I did what I do now I had a bunch of office jobs, and then I moved to Sweden for a couple of years and that was where I really got into darkrooms; I ended up spending about 40 hours a week in them. I was inspired by a friend of mine who had his own darkroom, and I wanted to begin something for myself that had a strong lab element. I started the darkroom when I moved back to the UK in between a couple of crappy jobs, and it just evolved.

The idea is to keep the place as artist-orientated as possible, to champion the artist, especially darkroom members, residents and friends; people who are producing work within a pretty vast scope of alternative or traditional analogue photography.

Tina. The reason I’m here is because I was moaning online about a photography course I was doing. Seb saw what I’d said, and invited me to come and do a lith printing course. I’d always hated darkrooms because they’re filled with beardy men who think there’s only one, very precise way of doing things, but lith printing is actually a way of printing that’s not quite so anal, and so it drew me back into it.

I’m happy here. I wasn’t particularly happy when I first came. I didn’t like my job, and everything was kind of trudging, but I’d always carried on taking photos and it’s all made sense in the end, my terrible film and camera habit. I’ve also met people that I can actually talk to about photography. My friends aren’t interested in it, but now I can have long and involved conversations with people at the studio about how long you can leave something in chemistry for, and I like those conversations.

Seb. There’s a real tradition within darkrooms of “this is how you do things”, and something we try to encourage people to do here is to experiment, and not be so rigid. We teach them the basics, and tell them that as long as you get those right then you’ll end up with something, but that you should play around with the parameters.

Failure’s something that I encourage students to embrace. It’s so important in the darkroom; being really comfortable with failure, and being comfortable with things not working, but knowing and learning from what happens. It’s so important for discovering things. Happy accidents, serendipity, whatever you want to call it; they’re huge factors in the darkroom, and you learn the best things by doing it completely wrong. It just clicks in your head a lot better, so I encourage people to fuck things up.

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Help Back Anthony's Kickstarter Project

words Hiba Mohamed

16th June 2014

Anthony Gerace is going on an adventure, and he needs your help. 

A photographer of deserted landscapes and arresting portraits, Anthony has now decided to take on southwestern America, aiming to travel through and document the people and lanscapes of Box Elder County, Utah. A piece of land hemmed in by the desert and the Great Salt Lake, Box Elder boasts a rugged and nondescript landscape that hides crucial pieces of social and American history. 

This is where you come in. Anthony has launched a Kickstarter page to fund his project, and needs to raise £2000 by 5th July for the funding to go ahead. If you'd like to learn more about Box Elder or would like to back his project, take a look at his Kickstarter page here. 

The photos below are taken from the series Seaside Towns, published in Issue 17 of Oh Comely. In it, Anthony documented the dwindling tourism industry of the British seaside. 


Photos from Anthony's series on Seaside Towns. 

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An Interview with Photographer Eylül Aslan

words Tamara Vos

14th May 2014

Eylül Aslan is a Turkish photographer based in Berlin, whose work has often been featured in Oh Comely. Her photos capture provocative and sometimes sensual moments with the female figure at their centre, and lead us into a fanciful and sometimes slightly disturbing world. Rarely do you see the face or direct gaze of the subject; instead your imagination runs amok with allusions and hidden stories. 

I spoke to Eylül about how she began photography, her inspirations, and her new book, Trauerweide.

Tell us a little about yourself and what you do.

I am Eylül Aslan from Istanbul, Turkey. I have been living and working in Berlin since the summer of 2012. I studied French Literature at Istanbul University and have also worked as a translator. 

How long have you been taking photographs, and how did you start? 

I've been taking photos since 2007. I actually started by taking lots of self portraits and photos of my cousin who lived with me back then. She was the one who motivated me to take more photos. With her encouragement I started a Flickr account, and after seeing the attention I was getting I decided to take it more seriously. I also got offers from fashion photographers in Turkey to work as their assistants, and did that for a while. 
 

What inspires you in your photography?

It's mostly things that attract my attention, that give me some kind of an urge to photograph. I also enjoy telling stories; most of my photos have hidden stories behind them and I like the idea of people finding different stories of their own. And of course I think I use it as a tool to express myself…

Tell us about your book. 

My book is about the sexual and political suppression of women in male dominant cultures such as my home country, Turkey.
 

What does "trauerweide" mean? 

Trauerweide is a German word meaning 'weeping willow'. I wanted to choose a German name because since I moved to Berlin, my life has changed entirely and I am now so happy to be a part of this culture.

The trauerweide tree looks like a veil (in this context a religious veil) that is covering a tree (or a woman) so that it's impossible to see the tree itself, or the trunk, the body and the roots, because it is completely covered by its branches.

Do you remember the first photo you took that you were proud of?

Yes, I think I do. I was doing one of my first 'serious' photo shoots with two cousins who are also my friends, and we were on a very high terrace in Istanbul. The sun was shining, the view of the city was amazing. I took a photo of the two of them, one hugging the other one from the back, and in the photo, you can see their hair and shoulders, and the sky is blue.
 

Who is your hero?

My hero is my mother. And not only because she is the person who gave birth to me and raised me but also because she is one of the strongest and most beautiful people I have ever known. She has taught me to be adventurous, open-minded, brave, funny, tolerant, free, independent and I am trying my best to be all of these. We are best friends and on top of everything, she is the one who led me to photography.
 
 
 
 
 
Eylül's book Trawuerweide is available here
 
All photos by Eylül Aslan
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Pick Me Up Graphic Arts Festival: Ticket Giveaway

words Tamara Vos

14th April 2014

Who needs a Monday morning pick-me-up? 

Pick Me Up is an arts festival with a difference: it's a fun and informal showcase of the work of both budding and bonafide graphic artists, featuring quirky studio spaces where you can shop for real, affordable art. 

Now in it's fifth year, Pick Me Up is bigger than ever, with more events, late nights, and a wider range of design and illustration represented. There'll be a record sleeve workshop, a Monster Marathon, and a pug-drawing workshop to name just a few, plus talks and screenings from illustrators and producers. 

"Ti adoro Ivan Cattaneo". Carine Brancowitz

The festival is running from the 24th April - 5th May, at the Embankment Galleries of Somerset House. Day tickets are £10 (concessions £8), and a Festival Pass is £17.50. 

We are giving away two tickets to one lucky Oh Comely reader, to visit the festival on a day of their choice. 

Simply share the work of your favourite illustator with the hashtag #pickmeupOC on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, and we will announce the winner next Monday. 

I Would Rather Just Hang Out With You, Julia Pott.

Flowers on a Car, Annu Kil.

 

 

Harvard, Thibaud Herem

Some T's & C's:

The pair of tickets can be used on any day during the festival. However, the winner is required to advise what their day of entry will be in advance of their visit. The pair of tickets are valid only when used together. The winner and their guest are able to stay as long as they like, but please be aware that there is no re-admission. Entry is subject to capacity and during busy periods a queuing systems may be in place.

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Exhibition of 20th Century Japanese Prints at Henry Sotheran's

words Tamara Vos

7th April 2014

Here at the Oh Comely office we're busy polishing up Issue Twenty, which will be out at the end of April. 

We're especially excited to include a feature on Studio Ghibli by our film editor Jason Ward. After the success of Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind in 1985, Studio Ghibli continued to shape the global progress of anime, with 2001's award-winning Spirited Away becoming the highest-grossing film in Japanese history. Hayao Miyazaki - the director and creative force behind Studio Ghibli - announced his retirement last year, and the feature will be a retrospective on the three decades of his work. 

With that in mind, we'd like to present an exhibition of 20th century Japanese prints at Henry Sotheran's, the longest-running antiquarian bookshop in the world. As well as featuring a range of traditional woodblock prints and original watercolour scrolls, the exhibition will include prints of original Studio Ghibli storyboards and hand-drawn anime. 

The exhibition is running from 10th April - 1st May at the Henry Sotheran Print Gallery in Picadilly, London. Admission is free, and all artwork will be available for acquisition. 

Images from top: An original anime illustration from Studio Ghibli's My Neighbor Totoro, as published in Japan, 1988.

Original woodblock print by Teru Kuzuhara.

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Late At Tate Britain: What We Wore

words Tamara Vos

31st March 2014

Late at Tate Britain is a bi-monthly event on Friday nights that offers a little more than your usual gallery visit. Accompanied by vibrant performances, music, film and of course a drink, Late at Tate is the perfect opportunity to explore art after hours. And it's free. 

This month, Late at Tate is focusing on fashion, visual codes and subculture through the lense of British art. As part of this, What We Wore (WWW) is exploring the personal history of British style, and is inviting the audience to contribute their own photos to a live archive, which will later be turned into a book. 

Do you have any snaps of yourself or your parents sporting retro hairstyles or ridiculous flares? If you do, send in your submissions to [email protected], for your chance to feature in the forthcoming exhibition and book. 

1971. "This picture was taken on my way from a Nigerian fashion show held at the Nigerian Embassy near Trafalgar Square, to promote Nigerian woven textiles" - Mimi Joshua-Olushoga. 

1973. My brother's christening. "I think my favourite outfit is my cousin Matthew’s Ben Sherman paired with very baggy flares." - Sue Tilley

1970. "The tweed coat was very in. I used to get a school grant for clothes. There was one shop in Northwood where you could spend the voucher. It was the only shop near my school that you could get anything decent in." - Philomena Clarke

"This is me some time in the mid 1980’s outside a pub in Canterbury called The Bishops Finger."

"My sister Colly (left) and I in Hyde Park in the early 1970s. Those flares may have been tailormade. I used to go to a men’s tailor in Athens with my boyfriend when we visited his homeland. I remember getting some green silk trousers made and I was so proud of how they fitted." - Maggie Mitchell.

1970. "This was known by Mum, Dad and I as the 'psychedelic' dress and was my absolute favourite for some time" - Deborah Ripley. 

Late at Tate Britain is on 4th April from 18:00 - 21:30. Entry is free. Last entry to exhibitions will be at 21:00. 

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Decadenza: A Venture Into The Unknown

words Linnea Enstrom

3rd March 2014

With an eye for the cracked beauty of urban decay, photographer Gina Soden’s new exhibition Decadenza brings us to Italy and the derelict structures of the past. Showcased at the Rise Art Gallery in the heart of Fitzrovia, the exhibition is supported by other important pieces of Soden’s work, including images of school ruins, moss-clad hotel rooms and abandoned asylums.

Despite capturing the inescapable passing of time and the collapse of once important social or cultural sites, Decadenza makes room for tranquil beauty within cluttered spaces of devastation and neglect. Instead of simply documenting old buildings, Soden breathes new life into the ruins, adorning
them with colour and light.

Perhaps marking the difference between ruin porn and art, the exhibition emphasises aesthetics above exploitation and avoids the doom and gloom which for example surrounds the ever-expanding footage of a crumbling Detroit.

A reminder that nothing lasts forever, Soden's images dwell on notions of nostalgia and romanticism rather than the fear of an impending apocalypse.

Decadenza is free and can be viewed by appointment only (0203 432 2580). The exhibition runs until the 9th of April.

www.ginasoden.co.uk 

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Stained Fingers: An Interview with Textile Designer Katherine May

words Tamara Vos

28th February 2014

Katherine May is a textile designer and researcher, who brings together all the aspects of textile production with her work: growing the dye, sourcing the material, and using the dye-water to maximum potential. 

Every year, the textile industry uses in excess of 370 billion litres of water which, after it's been used, is unfit for any other purposes (such as drinking or agriculture) and is toxically expelled into local water supplies. Katherine's most recent installation, Water-Colour, aimed to raise awareness of water consumption within the industry and promote alternative, more sustainable methods of textile production. 

We spoke to the designer about her work, inspiration and her favourite colour. 

Tell us a little bit about yourself and what you do. 

I'm a London-based designer, trained in textile design and anthropology. I make textiles and conduct research in sustainable textile design.

How did you start working with textiles?

I first worked with textiles when I was 17. At that age I remember being terrified of using a sewing machine, but once I overcame that there's been no going back. Over the years I became increasingly fascinated and passionate about a medium that's part of everyday living. From shelters to clothing, vessels to medical dressings, flooring and seating to parachutes, as humans we are inextricably involved with textiles.

In the post-industrial world, fabric has become ubiquitous and inexpensive, and the magic of textile making has become invisible. I took inspiration from this gap in my own knowledge, and chose to learn the physical processes of producing textiles. My interest in the life-cycle of materials has inspired experiments with growing dye plants to colour cloth, tracing the journey from seed to cloth.

What was the driving inspiration behind your installation Water-Colour? 

Water-Colour aimed to raise awareness of water consumption in the production and use of textiles. It responded to the building's past life as a laundry, the raw ingredients of a laundrette being water, cloth and community. The installation evolved over 10 days, and included a programme of talks and workshops on dyeing, indigo textiles, laundry and water use.

Tell us a bit about what you're working on at the moment.

I've been working on a series of quilted textiles that combine plant-dyed cottons with reflective and neon cloth. The quilts were exhibited at Heals on Tottenham Court Road, where I also performed demonstrations with a quilt group, engaging visitors with the social history of quilt-making.

What's a typical day of work like for you? 

My days vary depending on what textile process I'm working on. Yesterday I was making an indigo dye vat to dip-dye several meters of cloth in a garden; last week I was cutting and sewing patchwork from reflective and neon cloth. 

Our current issue is themed around colour - what's you're favourite colour? 

That's quite hard to decide, especially as I work with colour combinations. But yellow keeps coming to mind - it could be because of the grey weather, but I'll have primary yellow as my favourite colour for now.

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